Easter 2012: The first 2 days of the TPT from Southport.
The start of the Trans Pennine Trail
on a bright Good Friday morning.
on a bright Good Friday morning.
6th April 2012:
Combined tactics were required to get the fully loaded 'Tank' onto the platform at my local station. The 42 steps from the street make this a less than 'cycle friendly' station. Claire, my wife and logistics coordinator ferried my 6 panniers/bags around to the station in the car whilst I cycled there. I deposited my delightfully light-weight bike on the platform and descended the steps to collect my payload.
Combined tactics were required to get the fully loaded 'Tank' onto the platform at my local station. The 42 steps from the street make this a less than 'cycle friendly' station. Claire, my wife and logistics coordinator ferried my 6 panniers/bags around to the station in the car whilst I cycled there. I deposited my delightfully light-weight bike on the platform and descended the steps to collect my payload.
Job done and with 10 minutes to spare before the train was due (20 minutes before the train arrived)
'a reminder that this isn't Switzerland' ! I was concerned that on a Bank Holiday a seaside bound train might be jam packed - would I get the bike on? There was 1 other person in the 2 carriages that I could see, maybe everyone has flown to the Med?
Southport station seemed to deposit me out into an enclosed shopping mall! I followed my nose until I spotted a sign for the seafront. It must be 25 years since I was last at Southport but in the morning sunshine and without the usual workday traffic it was pleasant enough.
'Travelling light'
A couple of roadies out for a Bank holiday ride on the seafront.
The first hour or so on the TPT is very pleasant, passing the
dunes at
Ainsdale and Birkdale and taking a route on the very
quiet roads and
tracks of the Cheshire Lines cycleway.
There are lots of stiles on the TPT, this one like most of those in the early stages was easy enough to negotiate. The same cannot be said for all the stiles!!
Some stiles elicited a string of language so colourful that even my panniers looked dull by comparison.
It was actually impossible to get my bike through some of the stiles, they are too short and narrow and apart from removing the panniers there was only one way I managed to get through. This involved a very strenuous upending of the bike so that it is shimmied through vertically on the back wheel only. With such a heavy bike this really is a massive effort each time it was needed so anyone contemplating doing the TPT fully loaded "beware".
I understand the need for these stiles but for a multi-day cycle route, there has to be a better way?
The TPT is well signed for the most part but not everywhere, I first lost the route near Maghull where the signs seemed to dry up. I ended up with the choice of a very busy dual-carriageway or heading initially in the wrong direction in the hope of finding a way round. I consulted my TPT guidebook but that is of little use, the maps are totally inadequate and I'd decided to risk not having a 'propar' map.
I didn't fancy the busy road.
After some time circling around residential streets I asked a local who pointed me in the general direction of Aintree. There was one major obstacle, a very awkward stile - this is where I first employed the 'vertical bike' strategy. As I was struggling to get through the stile a couple of youths who were loitering on a bridge above were watching my progress. "What's in the bags mate" came a shout from above in an accent which left me in no doubt as to my whereabouts. "Camping shit" I replied.
I gave them the benefit of the doubt and put their interest down to healthy inquisitiveness!
I eventually found myself on a canal towpath which came as a relief after the roads, it was an easy pleasant route. There were locals relaxing by the canal and enjoying the produce of the local off-license.
I came across a group of Mountain bikers who were busy fixing a broken chain. I stopped to make sure they had what they needed and was warned of a closure of the towpath ahead. Several miles back on the road brought me in to Aintree where a succession of local navigation experts sent me on fruitless sorties to all points of the compass. When I finally got back on the TPT I came across the first of the thoughtfully decorated sections (multi-coloured broken glass festooned around the trail).
I'd negotiated one particularly perplexing stile and was struggling with a second when a helpful local assisted me. Once I'd got the bike through I chatted with the guy who asked me where I was heading and where I'd started from. The news that I was heading in the wrong direction came as something of a surprise but the re-crossing of the 2 killer stiles was the real cause of the deterioration in my language!
As I turned back he warned me that a certain section was 'full of broken glass and gangs on bikes' - I began to question my choice of route for a cycle tour!
With the dire warnings and a weakening resolve to tackle the stiles I came off the trail and used local roads to make progress. With no map and a sketchy knowledge of the local place names I resorted to heading in a generally southerly direction which by now involved heading for the patch of sky which was slightly less dull than than the rest.
My philosophy of never getting stressed by cycle touring was sorely tested when I completed a 3 or 4 mile loop of a huge housing estate near Croxteth country park. I passed through one ghost town where every house was boarded-up. Passing close by Huyton, Prestcot and Rainhill I eventually crossed the M62 and had a few very unpleasant miles on the dual carriageway into Widnes, there's too much of a speed differential between cars doing 70 or 80mph and a cyclist doing 15.
Passing through an industrial estate in Widnes I finally re-joined the TPT at the St Helens canal with a distant view of the Runcorn bridge over the Manchester ship canal.
I'd been on the road and off the trail for almost 3 hours!
I finally got a chance to eat something and took a well earned rest for half an hour, I was fairly sure I 'shouldn't' lose the trail again today. The way onwards was quite scenic with views of the Mersey estuary marshlands. After passing the belching giant of Fiddlers Ferry power station I came upon Fiddlers Ferry marina.
I had contemplated a discreet wild camp along this route but the area that looked promising proved to be largely fenced off and signed for dangerous methane outlets! The perils of planning things on Google Earth!
My fallback option was to make it to a campsite in Lymm. Hollybank campsite is just a mile or so off the trail over the Warburton toll bridge and I arrived there around 5pm so had a couple of hours of daylight to relax after pedalling the Tank for 6 hours.
I left the campsite at 9:30 and was immediately tested by the short ascent up to Warburton bridge. This is a ride I do regularly on a road bike but with leaden legs which were barely awake it was a struggle.
I understand the need for these stiles but for a multi-day cycle route, there has to be a better way?
The TPT is well signed for the most part but not everywhere, I first lost the route near Maghull where the signs seemed to dry up. I ended up with the choice of a very busy dual-carriageway or heading initially in the wrong direction in the hope of finding a way round. I consulted my TPT guidebook but that is of little use, the maps are totally inadequate and I'd decided to risk not having a 'propar' map.
I didn't fancy the busy road.
After some time circling around residential streets I asked a local who pointed me in the general direction of Aintree. There was one major obstacle, a very awkward stile - this is where I first employed the 'vertical bike' strategy. As I was struggling to get through the stile a couple of youths who were loitering on a bridge above were watching my progress. "What's in the bags mate" came a shout from above in an accent which left me in no doubt as to my whereabouts. "Camping shit" I replied.
I gave them the benefit of the doubt and put their interest down to healthy inquisitiveness!
I eventually found myself on a canal towpath which came as a relief after the roads, it was an easy pleasant route. There were locals relaxing by the canal and enjoying the produce of the local off-license.
I came across a group of Mountain bikers who were busy fixing a broken chain. I stopped to make sure they had what they needed and was warned of a closure of the towpath ahead. Several miles back on the road brought me in to Aintree where a succession of local navigation experts sent me on fruitless sorties to all points of the compass. When I finally got back on the TPT I came across the first of the thoughtfully decorated sections (multi-coloured broken glass festooned around the trail).
I'd negotiated one particularly perplexing stile and was struggling with a second when a helpful local assisted me. Once I'd got the bike through I chatted with the guy who asked me where I was heading and where I'd started from. The news that I was heading in the wrong direction came as something of a surprise but the re-crossing of the 2 killer stiles was the real cause of the deterioration in my language!
As I turned back he warned me that a certain section was 'full of broken glass and gangs on bikes' - I began to question my choice of route for a cycle tour!
With the dire warnings and a weakening resolve to tackle the stiles I came off the trail and used local roads to make progress. With no map and a sketchy knowledge of the local place names I resorted to heading in a generally southerly direction which by now involved heading for the patch of sky which was slightly less dull than than the rest.
My philosophy of never getting stressed by cycle touring was sorely tested when I completed a 3 or 4 mile loop of a huge housing estate near Croxteth country park. I passed through one ghost town where every house was boarded-up. Passing close by Huyton, Prestcot and Rainhill I eventually crossed the M62 and had a few very unpleasant miles on the dual carriageway into Widnes, there's too much of a speed differential between cars doing 70 or 80mph and a cyclist doing 15.
Passing through an industrial estate in Widnes I finally re-joined the TPT at the St Helens canal with a distant view of the Runcorn bridge over the Manchester ship canal.
I'd been on the road and off the trail for almost 3 hours!
I finally got a chance to eat something and took a well earned rest for half an hour, I was fairly sure I 'shouldn't' lose the trail again today. The way onwards was quite scenic with views of the Mersey estuary marshlands. After passing the belching giant of Fiddlers Ferry power station I came upon Fiddlers Ferry marina.
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| Fiddlers Ferry marina |
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| Like the author of this blog, a little past it's best |
My fallback option was to make it to a campsite in Lymm. Hollybank campsite is just a mile or so off the trail over the Warburton toll bridge and I arrived there around 5pm so had a couple of hours of daylight to relax after pedalling the Tank for 6 hours.
7th April 2012:
Up at 7:30 after a half decent sleep although once again my lightweight sleeping bag was on it's limit.I left the campsite at 9:30 and was immediately tested by the short ascent up to Warburton bridge. This is a ride I do regularly on a road bike but with leaden legs which were barely awake it was a struggle.
View from Warburton Bridge towards Manchester.
I'd done the section from Lymm to Carrington before on a local ride so managed not to get lost.
There are lots of stiles and road crossings on this section although nothing as awkward as the Merseyside monsters. Broken glass seemed be less evident in Cheshire, I reflected on how lucky I was to survive the previous day without punctures.
The River Mersey near Chorlton
Chorlton Water Park
Day 2 was going far too well. I first lost the trail at a diversion in Didsbury, the worst consequence of this was ending up on the A34 at busy traffic light junction where whilst waiting to turn right I was suddenly surrounded by darting traffic trying to make way for an Ambulance on blue lights, chaos. I survived and picked up the trail again for Stockport where I lost the route once again. Quite a long section 'off piste' this time as I headed up through Reddish and up to the A57 near Denton.
On the approach to Denton I heard a screaming engine behind and quickly nipped up onto the pavement. The big Audi flashed past doing at least 100mph!
I knew I had diverted too far north so I turned right (south) in Denton and stopped to ask directions. I was sure a choice of 3 mature ladies at the bus stop would give me a good chance of salvation. For the purposes of deciding the winner of 'The most bemused Facial expression' competition I couldn't decide between the 3 of them! Fortunately a chap arrived who had a good knowledge of the area and knew where I could rejoin the TPT which turned out to be a couple of miles to the south in the valley of the River Tame.
Once the road was left I came across a welcome bench overlooking the river where, as was the case yesterday, I was able to take a break and eat after a long spell on the road.
The next section and through to Broadbottom and Mottram was fairly hilly with some steep but short pulls.
A short 'official' road section near Mottram showing the snow covered hills of the Peak district.
By now I was tiring and also low on water, thank you to the kind lady in Charlesworth who replenished my water bottle. This was something else that was a first for me, I needed water so I just stopped and asked a householder, I may need to get accustomed to doing that.
My destination for the night was the campsite at Crowden on the Woodhead pass. The final hour was the most scenic of the day and one steep climb defeated me requiring a push of 100m or so. I had a warm welcome at the campsite and the cost was exactly half of the previous nights at Lymm. Highly recommended.
I was directed to an area for backpackers (I've just discovered that what I'm now doing is known as 'Bike-packing'). I pitched a discreet distance away from the only other tent in the area which turned out be occupied by a friendly Dutch guy who had had something of an epic in the snow walking from Edale on the Pennine way. He had unintentionally spent the previous night 'on the hill' after struggling with snow conditions and navigation on the Bleaklow plateau. He had planned to do the whole of the Pennine Way over 3 weeks but had now realised that he had bitten off more than he could chew at this time of year. His legs were leaden and his relief at "surviving" was clear. He planned to head to Manchester Airport the following day to return home. I guess it's difficult to train for the hills in Holland!
A setting sun on the
Bleaklow plateau.
Best part of the day!
One further traveller appeared on the backpackers area in the early evening. Like the Dutchman he had started the Pennine way at Edale and had walked over Kinder and Bleaklow that day but manged to avoid any epic adventures although he did report heavy going in the snow on high ground. Clearly an experienced walker and backpacker he was travelling light and produces a super light 'Tarp Tent'. It transpired that his objective wasn't only the Pennine way but an altogether more 'epic' journey. He was walking from Lands End to Cape Wrath, the most southwesterly to the most northwesterly point of the UK. He had been walking for 6 weeks and was less than half way through his journey.
I've done some challenging walks myself over the years but this is in a different league altogether. Respect.
His blog can be followed at:-
http://omnivorist.blogspot.co.uk/
From Glossop it was an uninspiring road ride back to Worsley, west of Manchester. I stopped by in the city centre passing through the Gay village and China town en route and stopped off at the Castlefield canal basin to eat the last of my food. After 3 days cycling, much of it off-road I very nearly came a cropper on the extremely slippery paving slabs around the back of Manchester YHA.
I'll probably return to the TPT to complete the route to Hornsea on the east coast, the trail has it's issues - not least of which is the negotiation of the troublesome stiles but it is on the whole very enjoyable and offers a largely off-road option for travelling from the Irish Sea to the North Sea.
To be continued......
I'd done the section from Lymm to Carrington before on a local ride so managed not to get lost.
There are lots of stiles and road crossings on this section although nothing as awkward as the Merseyside monsters. Broken glass seemed be less evident in Cheshire, I reflected on how lucky I was to survive the previous day without punctures.
 | |||
| Always a friendly wave from the locals. |
Chorlton Water Park
Day 2 was going far too well. I first lost the trail at a diversion in Didsbury, the worst consequence of this was ending up on the A34 at busy traffic light junction where whilst waiting to turn right I was suddenly surrounded by darting traffic trying to make way for an Ambulance on blue lights, chaos. I survived and picked up the trail again for Stockport where I lost the route once again. Quite a long section 'off piste' this time as I headed up through Reddish and up to the A57 near Denton.
On the approach to Denton I heard a screaming engine behind and quickly nipped up onto the pavement. The big Audi flashed past doing at least 100mph!
I knew I had diverted too far north so I turned right (south) in Denton and stopped to ask directions. I was sure a choice of 3 mature ladies at the bus stop would give me a good chance of salvation. For the purposes of deciding the winner of 'The most bemused Facial expression' competition I couldn't decide between the 3 of them! Fortunately a chap arrived who had a good knowledge of the area and knew where I could rejoin the TPT which turned out to be a couple of miles to the south in the valley of the River Tame.
Once the road was left I came across a welcome bench overlooking the river where, as was the case yesterday, I was able to take a break and eat after a long spell on the road.
The next section and through to Broadbottom and Mottram was fairly hilly with some steep but short pulls.
A short 'official' road section near Mottram showing the snow covered hills of the Peak district.
By now I was tiring and also low on water, thank you to the kind lady in Charlesworth who replenished my water bottle. This was something else that was a first for me, I needed water so I just stopped and asked a householder, I may need to get accustomed to doing that.
 |
| Had to push on this section! |
 |
| Looking east along Rhodeswood reservoir |
 | |||
| An impressive fountain at the outlet of Bottoms reservoir |
My destination for the night was the campsite at Crowden on the Woodhead pass. The final hour was the most scenic of the day and one steep climb defeated me requiring a push of 100m or so. I had a warm welcome at the campsite and the cost was exactly half of the previous nights at Lymm. Highly recommended.
I was directed to an area for backpackers (I've just discovered that what I'm now doing is known as 'Bike-packing'). I pitched a discreet distance away from the only other tent in the area which turned out be occupied by a friendly Dutch guy who had had something of an epic in the snow walking from Edale on the Pennine way. He had unintentionally spent the previous night 'on the hill' after struggling with snow conditions and navigation on the Bleaklow plateau. He had planned to do the whole of the Pennine Way over 3 weeks but had now realised that he had bitten off more than he could chew at this time of year. His legs were leaden and his relief at "surviving" was clear. He planned to head to Manchester Airport the following day to return home. I guess it's difficult to train for the hills in Holland!
 |
| Crowden campsite |
A setting sun on the
Bleaklow plateau.
Best part of the day!
One further traveller appeared on the backpackers area in the early evening. Like the Dutchman he had started the Pennine way at Edale and had walked over Kinder and Bleaklow that day but manged to avoid any epic adventures although he did report heavy going in the snow on high ground. Clearly an experienced walker and backpacker he was travelling light and produces a super light 'Tarp Tent'. It transpired that his objective wasn't only the Pennine way but an altogether more 'epic' journey. He was walking from Lands End to Cape Wrath, the most southwesterly to the most northwesterly point of the UK. He had been walking for 6 weeks and was less than half way through his journey.
I've done some challenging walks myself over the years but this is in a different league altogether. Respect.
His blog can be followed at:-
http://omnivorist.blogspot.co.uk/
8th April 2012:
My spell on the TPT was finished for now as I was to head home to Manchester today. Initially I retraced my steps on the TPT and then picked up the old road into Glossop avoiding the busy A628 Woodhead pass.From Glossop it was an uninspiring road ride back to Worsley, west of Manchester. I stopped by in the city centre passing through the Gay village and China town en route and stopped off at the Castlefield canal basin to eat the last of my food. After 3 days cycling, much of it off-road I very nearly came a cropper on the extremely slippery paving slabs around the back of Manchester YHA.
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| Beetham Tower, Manchester's tallest building seen from Castlefield |
To be continued......
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