Pests, with wings and in cars:
Having skirted Almeria
I headed towards the Cabo de Gata peninsula. I've walked this coast
line over 3 days and it really is an unexpected treat, as far from
the idea of typical Spanish Costas as you can get. It's an area of
impressive craggy hills which plunge steeply in to the sea and
secluded coves, many only accessible on foot.
The roads are few and
have to run inland due to the terrain so I knew that a bike wasn't
the best option to explore this area. Nevertheless it's a beautiful
and quiet area with little traffic. It's not a hospitable place,
this is the hottest part of Spain and along with the area around
Tabernas inland it is said to be the only area of true desert in
Europe.
In to the 'Badlands' of Almeria
There are few villages,
none of the welcoming Plaza Mayor's of central Spain with their
refreshing Fuentes and convenient benches. For the first time on the
trip I had lunch by the roadside. I'd been riding for 4 or 5 hours,
it was hot and I was 'done-in' – I just pulled in and sat under the
shade of a tree, my bike discarded at the side of the road.
I'd pressed on further
than intended, I was a little early to stop at the camp sites at Cabo
de Gata and San Jose so I rode on to the site at Los Escullos. The
site looked ok, the pitches were stoney as usual but the pool was
open. Unfortunately the bar, shop and restaurant were closed all day
for an annual government inspection. I pressed on to the next option
another few miles down the road at Las Negras.
I've stayed in Las
Negras before, it's a picture box seaside village, not the real Spain
for me, too many posh Villas and modern Apartments. I followed signs
for the camp site on the edge of the village.
The site was allegedly
200 metres from this point? It didn't look too promising.
But there it was, set
just above an idyllic cove and also with a pool.
I'd planned to spend 2
nights here so I was well pleased with the prospect of a rest day in
what looked like a great little site.
I left the following
morning, sleep deprived and complaining to the receptionist.
I did get to swim in
the Med which was wonderful, it seemed like only 5 minutes since I
was on the Atlantic coast!!!
I cooked at the tent
which was fine until I realised that I was being bitten by Mozzies,
by the time I could clear everything away and take refuge in my tent
it was too late. I had dozens of bytes and had to lie in a very hot
tent itching all over. The worst were on the soles of my feet and
the backs of my hands, it was purgatory.
I spent a good 15
minutes zapping all the mozzies I could in the tent. I need my head
torch and glasses of course to splat the things, when I'm happy that
I've got them all I turn off my torch and lie back. A few minutes
later the dreaded high pitched buzz whizzes past my ear and the
killing campaign has to continue.
Things had cooled a
little by around 10pm and I was desperate to sleep. Little did I
know that this was Spain's noisiest camp site. The noise, including
general partying and annoyingly cars moving around the site went on
until was after midnight. A campervan arrived at 11:45 and parked
'on' my pitch!
I left in the morning
and informed the lady on reception that the site was terrible and
that I would never return, I don't think she was overly concerned!
The tiny fishing hamlet of Isleta del Moro, I once spent a cold and lonely night in the hostal here in December, definately the only tourist in the village.
The Cabo de Gata coastline.
Las Negras:
The road towards Agua Amarga was deserted and bizarrely for Spain, FLAT!
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