Segovia:

Spectacular city, but too many tourists!

I do realise that I'm one of them but it's the groups, the tour parties of 30+ being shepherded around by their tour guides.  That's the trouble with beautiful places, they're popular.  Maybe early morning or evening would be a better time to see Segovia, things may be closed then but that wouldn't worry me too much as I can't walk around them anyway.

I did however take the plunge. lock my bike up and pay my 3 euros to go inside the Cathedral, it seemed too impressive from the outside to miss the opportunity.

The inside was spectacular but no photos were permitted, below is a selection of pictures I didn't take!

The 2 main things I wanted to see in Segovia were the Roman Aqueduct and the Arabic Castle, the Alcazar.

The Aqueduct was constructed in the late 1st century AD.  Built from granite blocks with no mortar it was designed to bring water from the nearby hills into the city, it's just short of 100ft tall at it's highest point.

 I didn't go inside the Alcazar, from the outside it's drastic refurbishment makes it look a little too perfect and modern for me.  The fairytale turrets were apparently Walt Disney's inspiration for the castle in Sleeping beauty.

 

After a few hours doing the tourist thing I headed off the beaten track where I feel much more at home.  I found a back street bar, full of locals which did excellent tapas.  

A few more photos from around Segovia - 

I'd now better check the map to see where I'm going tomorrow, I suspect it may be a bit hilly!

Start of the journey south.

I enjoyed Bilbao, it was certainly worth visiting although hell will freeze over before I revisit the Pension Don Claudio.  There is a plaque on the door which indicates a 1 star rating, I think this was awarded for having adequate foundations, I can think of no other reason.  I've stayed in places before that don't promise too much from the outside but then prove to be pleasant enough inside.  The exterior of this hotel did not bode well but in fact was it's best feature!

I'd wondered how much hassle it would be to cycle through Bilbao to leave the city heading south, I managed to weave a way through industrial areas on fairly quiet roads and soon found myself on a country road above a river and finally making some small progress towards the Med.  The way was gradually rising but with no real effort for the first couple of hours.  That didn't last, as the cloud cleared and things got unpleasantly hot the ascent made itself felt.  I rode from sea level over a pass at 2100ft,  enough of an effort on any bike but when grinding 'The Tank' uphill it didn't do much for my confidence for the days and weeks ahead.  I made it though and the scenery was compensation for the toil.  I was crossing the Cordilliera Cantabrica, the hard work lasted for a couple of hours.  The hills are very impressive and topped by long lines of Limestone cliffs, I don't know if the area is popular for climbing but if it were in the UK it would be a Mecca for hard climbing.

I covered 50 miles which was what I'd initially planned but had given up hope of doing after my 'difficult' day cycling over the coastal hills to Bilbao.  I camped in a place called Trespaderne, the only tent on the site.

The final descent into Trespaderne

Hot in Bilbao:

I'm torn between updating my blog and taking a siesta, after yesterday the latter is a higher priority but I'll do an update first, conscientious soul that I am!

I've realised already that to keep a detailed blog every step of the way will be too time consuming and this trip isn't about spending time on a computer so I'll post random snippets as and when I get the time and the opportunity.  

I won't elaborate too much on yesterdays ride from Laredo to Bilbao, I think I need to 'man-up' and get on with it, suffice to say that it was very hot, hilly and I got lost twice. 

The previous day riding from Somo to Laredo was less hot, less hilly and shorter and I managed to stay on track.  Tomorrow I head into the hills proper and considering the way I struggled on the lesser coastal hills I'm a little concerned to say the least.  

Today, in Bilbao it's been very hot, 35deg C right now.  It will be cooler tomorrow thankfully.  I had the choice of taking a train into the city today or cycling.  The 50 metre hobble to find some breakfast this morning (the hovel has nothing more than a vending machine by way of sustenance) was enough to make the decision for me, walking at all wasn't an option so with some trepidation about cycling in the city I took that option.

After a short but fruitless foray I discovered a largely traffic free road/track which ran the 3 or 4 km to the Guggenheim which was really the only thing I was determined to see, the building that is, I'd given up on the option of walking around the museum which I didn't mind too much, I'll survive without seeing the David Hockney exhibition.

The building is stunning, certainly the most interesting modern building I've seen.  It's titanium and limestone construction catch the light and the scale is impressive.

I rode further into the city enjoying the warmth (no hills to climb) and ventured into the old town where as is obligatory for me, I got hopelesly lost.  I'd have been dissappointd if I hadn't.

The city and it's inhabitants seemed very relaxed, I cycled through crowded pedestrianised streets and nobody seemed to mind.  One thing I don't understand is that I have hardly heard anyone in Bilbao speaking anything other than Castillian, where are all the Basque speakers?  Lots of loyal Athletic Bilbao supporters were wearing their 'Red and White' shirts despite the 0: 3: defeat last night.

Spider scuplture

The Basque National sport: Pelota

The Old Town  'Casco Viejo'

Typical Plaza

Now it's Siesta time - oh, maybe 1 more photo:-

The Hovel

I never did understand football

Come-on you Red & Whites!

I should probably be posting about my day cycling to Bilbao, or even the Hotel I'm staying in for 2 nights (which is 3 nights too long) but I'm sure I'd regret using the choice language necessary to describe either of these traumas.

Instead I'll post about football and specifically the Europa Cup final which was played tonight.  I arrived in Bilbao after a feck of a day (sorry, I promised not to) and very soon realised that a big match was imminent.

Every 3rd citizen of Bilbao was wearing a red/white vertical stripe shirt.  A small number of people were wearing a green shirt with a bit of red and white.  

I googled the match and found it was tonight at 8:45pm,  a fact becoming increasingly obvious by the continuous 'bangs' from fireworks.  The local boy racers with trailing scarves and flags (red & white) were in evidence as I entered Bilbao and at least 50% of the houses were suitably adorned with 'red & white'.

I ventured out in to a balmy Bilbao evening just around kick-off time with the primary goal of replenishing my chronically depleted Glycogen levels but not averse to having a beer and cheering on the lads in Red & White.  The 1st bar I enter is the Bar Arabic. The score, just a few minutes after kick-off is 1: 0: to the Red & Whites.  The clientele were a little too bohemian for football supporters and showed little enthusiasm for the match.

I should mention that the other team 'Athletico Madrid' were playing in the Green shirts I'd seen a few of around town, maybe there were a few brave Madrillenos in town?

The score on the T.V. was shown as ATL 1:  ATH 0: which for a match between Athletico Madrid and Athletic Bilbao wasn't very helpful.

The 1st bar had no food so I had to move on, the second bar had no food but I thought it rude not to have a beer so I did.  Curiously the locals here also showed so little enthusiasm for the match that my confusion about who was who continued.

The 3rd bar had some food, I ate 2 lumps of cardboard masquerading as Chorizo Omlette baguettes.  By this time it was 2: 0: to the Red & Whites so I asked the barmaid who was who?  It seems both teams play in the same vertival red & white stripes but Bilbao were in their Green away strip.  This explained the lack of enthusiasm, more so when the third Madrid goal went in!  

Forgive me for thinking all the fans dressed in Red & White might be supporting the team in Red & White, stupid assumption really!

I'm now back in my hovel, it seems having purchased lots of fire-crackers the locals are going to let them off regardless of the arse kicking their team received.  

I think I'll stick to cycling, or maybe after today, take up darts!

Lost in translation

I expected some problems with the language but.......

 
Ah well, I'm heading into Basque country tomorrow so that should nice & easy!!